R1 YAMAHA PARTS
This is your one source for customizing and performance Yamaha R1 parts. Our R1 parts are like no other in the market, not only look great, but are found every day on the streets in every city and across the world.
Here are some of our parts we carry that can be helpful, for a quick launch off line try our 520 conversion kit, need help with getting up on one then we have over sized rear sprockets, custom tribal clutch and brake levers, log chrome heel guards, see thru gas cap, custom painted pig spotters, OEM replacement extended color brake lines or your extended swing arm, Aftermarket painted solo seats, flush mount turn signal lights, fluorescent wheel tape, double bubble windscreens, OEM replacement R1 under tails and rear fender , fully adjustable brake bars for extended swing arms or stock and custom wheels from stock to 240, 300, 330 in chrome or contrast cut. 240, 300, 330 and 360 single sided swing arm, fairing screens, anodized fairing bolt kits and R1 headlights. Many of our R1 YAMAHA PARTS are used for street fighters as well. If there are parts you are looking for and don't see them just make a call or email us for what you are looking for.
How To Wheelie a Sport bike:
Speed and riding position for learning wheelies
We recommend that beginners learn wheelies if first gear. It is easier to launch the wheelie in first gear, and there is more engines breaking in first gear. This means that you can ride a wheelie higher without the danger of looping it. It also hurts much less and breaks less stuff when you crash in first gear. For that reason i don't think it is a good idea to do high speed wheelies until using the brake is second nature. It is also much easier to go from riding out first gear wheelies to second gear wheelies than vice versa. The only downfall to learning wheelies in first vs. seconds is that the wheelie won't be as smooth. The throttle will feel much more sensitive. We think fifteen mph is a good speed to launch wheelies while learning; any slower and the wheelie may feel unstable to a beginner. We also recommend learning wheelies standing up with the left foot on the passenger peg, and the right foot on the front peg, covering the brake. While it may feel awkward at first to wheelie while standing, it will be easier after you get used to that part. Most people think it is easier to balance and control a wheelie standing up vs. sitting down. It is also easier to launch the wheelie from standing up.
How to clutch wheelies
There are a couple different methods for clutching wheelies. We prefer the second method.
Method
1:First accelerate with the clutch engaged. Then, with the throttle still opened, pull in the clutch with one finger, to the point where the clutch disengages. With the engine still under throttle, quickly let the clutch back out as the tach is rising.
2:Close the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way, with one finger. Then twist the throttle and dump the clutch.
When learning to clutch, only rev up the engine a little bit at first before letting out the clutch. This will give you the feel for clutching. Then gradually increase the rpms before dumping the clutch, until the front end jumps up close to the balance point. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point. If it comes up too far, gently push the rear brake to bring the bike back forward. When clutching second and third gear wheelies, the bike may need extra help, depending on what bike it is. If clutching alone doesn't get the wheelie up, then bounce at the same time. This is done by pushing down on the bike (with your arms and legs) at the same time you open the throttle, and then leaning back slightly when dropping the clutch. It's not a good idea to pull on the bars. Pulling up on the bars may cause the wheelie to come up funny and wobble.
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